STARTING FROM SCRATCH

The following information will assist you in properly zeroing your scope. Normally, no more than six to eight inches of adjustment is required for zeroing. In extreme cases, ten to fifteen inches is needed. We suggest you carefully check and adjust your mounting system FIRST when zeroing. Your scope is optically centered from the factory, which means the cross-hairs in your scope sit right in the middle of the scope's tube. Any adjustments made using the Windage/Elevation dials will move the erector system from center. While moving the dials is a part of the zeroing in process, extreme adjustment of the W/E dials can cause DAMAGE to your scope.

Attach the front and rear (bottom) mounts to the firearm and slightly tighten the mount screws. Lay the scope in the mounts and check to make sure the scope lays completely flat in the cradle of the mounts. Remove the scope and tighten the screws all the way. Lay the scope back in the cradle making sure the mounts have not moved and the scope still lies flat in the cradle. Attach the front and rear (top) mounts and tighten all screws. Note: If the the scope does not lay flat in the cradle after several attempts, do not force it down. It can DAMAGE the scope. This may indicate a problem with the mounts, scope or even the barrel of the firearm.

Locate a safe place to test fire, (25 yards) to do this initial zero in, preferable a firing range. You will need a stable surface to fire from. If you cannot hold the firearm still, it will not zero in correctly. A couple of small sand bags will come in handy for stabilizing the firearm. Before starting, a dry patch should be run through the bore to remove any oil. Set the target at 25 yards. Holding the crosshairs steady on the target, squeeze off a round. Repeat this two more times to get a three shot group. Retrieve your target and triangulate the shots (see pic below) to get an average point of impact. Measure from that POI group to the bulls eye where you aimed. This difference can now be adjusted out with adjusting screws located under the top and side (screw off caps) located in the center of the scope. Note: If the first group of shots are more than 3 inches from your Point of Aim (relates to about 12 inches/100 yards), from where you aimed at, re-start the aligning procededure. Adjust the mounting system first, then use the W/E adjustment screws on the scope. The arrows on the dial show which direction they will move the bullet. Turn the adjusting screws according to the MOA scale on the dials. If they say 1/4 MOA, that's means one click will move the bullet 1/4" at 100 yards. If you zero at a different yardage, say 50 Yards, one click will move the bullet only 1/8" at 50 yards, at 25 yards only 1/16". Once you have adjusted the windage (side screw) and the elevation (top screw), you are now ready for another 3 shot group. Repeat this process until you are satisfied with the results at 25 yards.

NOTE: Never force the W/E screws past their natural stop. Internal damage can result rendering the scope inoperative. The most common occurrence with "over-adjusting" includes: power change system jamming, broken inner lenses, poor image quality and poor grouping of shots.

AFTER YOU HAVE SIGHTED IN AT 25 YARDS

Locate a safe place to long range test fire, (100 yards) to fine tune the firearm, preferable a firing range. You will need a stable surface to fire from. If you cannot hold the firearm still, it will not zero in correctly. A couple of small sand bags will come in handy for stabilizing the firearm Before starting, a dry patch should be run through the bore to remove any oil. With a target set up at 100 yards, you are now ready to test fire. Holding the crosshairs steady on the target, squeeze off a round. Repeat this two more times to get a three shot group. Retrieve your target and triangulate the shots (see below) to get an average point of impact. Measure from that POI group to the bulls eye where you aimed. This difference can now be adjusted out with adjusting screws located under the top and side (screw off caps) located in the center of the scope. The arrows on the dial show which direction they will move the bullet. Turn the adjusting screws according to the MOA scale on the dial. If they say 1/4 MOA, that's means one click will move the bullet 1/4" at 100 yards. Note, if you zero at a different yardage, say 50 Yards, one click will move the bullet only 1/8" at 50 yards. Once you have adjusted the windage (side screw) and the elevation (top screw), you are now ready for another 3 shot group. Repeat this process until you are satisfied with the results. It is important to allow the barrel to cool down in between the three shot groups as heating of the barrel can cause bullet flight to vary. It is also recommended to swab the bore between shots with a dry patch to reduce buildup. Do not use any cleaning fluid or oil on the swab as this can affect bullet flight. If you are sighting in the firearm for hunting deer, you may want to adjust the elevation two inches above bullseye at 100 yards. This will give your firearm extended range and still keep you in the kill zone at 100 yards and less. Sighting in should be done on a windless day. When it is time to go shooting or hunting later, make sure to run a dry patch through the bore to remove the protecting oil that was used after the last cleaning.

TRIANGULATED POINT OF IMPACT (POI)